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Hudson River Sloops |
Chapter 2JOURNAL(During the late 1700’s and early 1800’s many travellers from other countries visited the Hudson-River Valley on their way to and from other parts of the young United States. John Maude was an Englishman, who visited Niagara Falls in 1800. His travel journal was published in 1826, and the portion describing his trip up the Hudson begins on this page.) NEW YORK, SATURDAY, JUNE 21st, 1800.5½ P. M. Embarked on board the Sloop Sally, Captain Peter Donnelly, seventy tons, four hands, viz, the Captain, his brother Andrew, John, who was on board Admiral De Winter’s Ship on the memorable 11th October, 1797, and Nicholas, a free black acting as steward, cook, cabin-boy, &c. had purchased his own freedom and that of his wife, hoping soon to effect that of his children; performs well on the violin, and is very smart. Twenty-four passengers, not berths for more than half. Passage two dollars each. Board and liquors, as may happen. Principal passengers, General Alleser, of New York, violent democrat; Caul, of Saratoga, ditto; Mr. Mousley, warm aristocrat and federalist; Mr. Putnam, Mr. Williams, Lieutenant Kipp, all three federalists; the youth Octavius, son of Timothy Pickering, Esq. late Secretary of State, under the care of Messrs. Williams and Putnam, both relations of Mr. Pickering; Jonas, of Montreal, Grocer: — of Michillimackinac; a drunken, Scotch Presbyterian Minister; Mr. Sanger, &c.&c. four raft-men, and a man and his wife from Staten Island.7 P. M. Unmoored; fine S. E. breeze; ten knots. 8 P. M. Breeze slackened. Midnight; cast anchor twenty-five miles from New York, entrance of Tappan Bay, not wind to stem the ebb. In the night, severe storm of thunder, lightning and rain. Not finding a berth unoccupied, or scarcely one that did not contain two persons, the Captain gave me his own state room. SUNDAY, JUNE 22d.5 A. M. Turned out, got under weigh: Tappan Bay, or Sea, five miles wide and ten long; extremities marked by two remarkable high bluffs; scarcely a breath of air; fog on the high banks of the bay; heavy rain; fell calm when opposite to Tarry-Town.10 A. M. Sun broke out and light airs from the north; beat slowly through the Tappan to Haverstraw-Bay, six miles wide, ten long. Stakes in the river for the convenience of taking Shad. Sturgeons constantly leaping out of the water. Shewn the field from whence the three youths first descried Major André: and the large whitewood tree under which he was examined. 2 P. M. Cast anchor; took boat and landed at the ferry-house opposite to Mount Pleasant, thirty-six miles from New York; river here four miles wide. Climbed the mountains to visit a lake on its opposite side; large, considerably above the level of the Hudson; pike, yellow bass, and sun-fish. Strawberries on its banks. Much chat with Betsy, who, born at the foot of the mountain and apparently secluded from the world, said she had been a great traveller, “once to the meeting and twice to the mill.” 7 P. M. Got under weigh; light airs from the north; progress trifling. Came to an anchor in the Horse-race, foot of St. Anthony’s Nose; river half a mile wide, channel from forty to fifty fathoms wide three miles above Peekskill, and forty-eight from New York; turned in at 11 P. M. MONDAY, JUNE 23d.Turned out at four A. M. Sketched a view of Fort Clinton, Fort Montgomery, St. Anthony’s Nose, the Bear Mountain and surrounding scenery; highly romantic and beautiful, being the entrance of the Highlands; to the south very extensive and pleasing prospect down the river through Haverstraw to Tappan Bay; dense fog on the lower part of Fort Clinton, Fort Montgomery and St. Anthony’s; the site of Fort Clinton is now occupied by the handsome dwelling-house of Mr. Ducet, a french gentleman; dreary situation and without society.5 A.M. Took boat and landed on a small Island: filled a cask with excellent water, picked up some drift wood, and got a pitcher of new milk for breakfast, 8 A. M. Returned and explored the Island; strange serpentine form: rocks and marsh; much scrub wood; four kinds of huckleberries; the swamp huckleberry, a tall shrub like the alder, an excellent fruit just beginning to ripen; the other still green; could only gather a few strawberries, the season being past. Laurel and Prickly Pear in blossom; the flower of the first, white with red spots, shaped like the convolvulus; that of the Prickly Pear, yellow and in appearance like the bloom of the melon and cucumber. Gathered the root of Sarsaparilla and a branch of Spice wood, this latter is a great sweetener of the blood and a pleasant flavor; flushed a pair of partridges or pheasants; though these birds more resemble Grouse than Partridge or Pheasant, I may here observe that the animals of America differ materially from those of the Old Continent, yet for want of more appropriate designations, they frequently receive the names of such European animals as they most resemble; but these names are by no means settled; for instance, what are known as Partridges in one part of the Country are called Quails in another, and these birds will alight in Trees, or on Paling. The Hares have white flesh. I have been informed that some Sporting Gentlemen have imported the English Red Fox as affording better diversion than the native Grey; and that although the Red Fox is the smaller animal, it is the more ferocious, and is eating out the Grey one, in the same manner that the Grey, or common Brown Norway Rat has eaten out the native Black Rat of England. The Black Rat was, however, a smaller animal than the Grey. Mr. Bullock, of Liverpool, had one of the old English Black Rats in his Museum, the only one I ever saw. At the cottage observed a child about three years of age, whose foot having been much burnt had been bound up close to the leg, and now adhered to it; he walked on his heel. 9 A. M. Got under weigh; head wind. 1 P. M. L — Mills, are superior to most in construction and situation, and very profitable; four pairs of stones; fifty-five miles from New York; the Miller takes down a cargo of flour and returns with wheat. 3 P. M.. Landed at West-Point, the Gibraltar of America; centre of the Highlands; fifty-eight miles from New York. Yet, who would have ever heard of West-Point but for the defection of Arnold, and the melancholy death of Major André! Lieutenant Kipp being personally acquainted with the Commandant Captain Stille, and Messrs. Williams and Putnam bearing letters to him, we were politely received, and permitted to range over this impregnable fortress. Though very sultry, we could not resist the temptation of climbing up to the ruins of Fort Putnam; where at a vast height above the hudson, over looked much of the Highlands, and still more of the majestic river, which here deviates from its usual direct course from north to south, and in no place more so than at West Point, washing two sides of the triangle, so that a wind fair for approaching it, is a-head when passing it, consequently no enemy’s vessel could escape destruction, if hardy enough to attempt the passage. The view from our present situation was most sublime and magnificent. I do not recollect one that I enjoyed so much; it was historic ground—had been trodden by Washington, was his favorite post, and his own selection! The scenery is, I think, however, unequal to one of the views near Windermere. I allude to the view looking towards Langdale Pikes, Hard Knot, and Wry Nose. There were at present in garrison only one company of Artillery and Engineers. The Barracks are on a tolerably level plain of several acres, on which were feeding a few horses and about twenty cows. While we were ranging over the garrison, the Captain had taken boat and gone upon a foraging expedition to the opposite shore, from whence he brought off a quarter of veal, a pitcher of milk, with some butter and cheese. Lieutenant Kipp found here three or four of his company, who, when disbanded on the 15th Inst. entered into the service of the Artillery and Engineers. Told some camp anecdotes; Major Wilcox, to try whether the sentinel and the officer on guard knew their duty, gave the wrong countersign to the one, and the wrong parole to the other; the consequence was, (as the Major knew not how to extricate himself) that the young Lieutenant, then on duty, sent the Major, under charge of a file of men, to the guardhouse. Colonel Smith, the commandant, wishing also to try the sentinel, when returning to camp one night with a horse and chair, gave when challenged “who goes there!” “ horse and chair !“ the sentinel immediately exclaimed, “chair stand still! horse advance, and give the countersign!” 9 P. M. Got under weigh; having no wind, drifted with the tide, boat a-head towing. 10½ P. M. Light southerly breeze; turned the Scotch Presbyterian Minister out of the cabin and put him into the hold. This man had given himself up to dram-drinking, which kept him in a continual state of intoxication, so that lie never left his birth but for a few moments; his legs had running sores, which, being neglected, were offensive to such a degree, that the passengers had determined to pass the night on deck, unless he were put below. 11 P.M.. Passed Butter-Hill, and the Face Mountain, the last of the Highlands. 11½ P.M. Turned in; the cabin being by this time tolerably ventilated. TUESDAY, JUNE 24th.4 A. M. Turned out opposite to Barnegat and its lime—kilns, twenty miles from West Point, and seventy-eight from NeW York; Light southerly air; two knots.6 A. M. Fell calm; went on shore and got a supply of milk and eggs; could not procure bread. 7 A.M. Light southerly air; got under weigh; hot sun. 8 A. M. Fine favorable breeze. 8½ A. M. Poughkeepsie seventy-nine miles, high wooded banks each side the river; came up with anti passed four sloops. Esopus island ninety-five miles from New York. Esopus Flats one hundred miles; these flats, or shoals, throw the channel of the river on the opposite shore, where it forms a large bay; fine view here of the Katskill Mountains. Pass Judge Lewis’s and Mr. Livingston’s country seats. 2 P. M. Redhook one hundred miles from New York, beautiful situation; opposite to the Katskill Mountains; two Islands decorate the river. We were now carried along at the rate of ten miles an hour, having scarcely time to examine the beauty of the country, through which we were so rapidly passing. 3 P. M. The city of Hudson, one hundred and thirty miles; opposite to Hudson is Lunenberg, or Algiers; this latter name was given to it in consequence of the piratical practices of the inhabitants. In De Witt’s map it is called Esperanza. Above Hudson is a wind-mill; I do not know that there are four in the United States. There are two near Newport. 4½ P. M. Kinderhook one hundred and forty miles; twenty houses; Mr. M’c Macbin’s is the principal one; fine view; Islands numerous in this part of the river. Heavy thundering; took in sail: cast anchor. 5½ P. M. Got under weigh, in doing which, fished up an excellent and large anchor, a valuable prize for the Captain. The gust, as expected, killed the wind; in summer I never knew an instance to the contrary. Had the gust kept off, we should have been in Albany by seven o’clock. 9 P. M. The wind having entirely failed us, took the Sloop in tow, and at 7 P. M. had her moored along side a Wharf in Baltimore, one hundred and forty-five miles. Went on shore; took with us Nicholas and his violin, the fiddle soon got the girls together; we kicked up a dance and kept it up till midnight. Treated with spruce-beer and gingerbread. Baltimore is a shabby place, every other house a tavern; in number about a dozen.
WEDNESDAY, JUNE 25th.3 A. M. Not a breath of air; took Sloop in tow; not possible to see from stem to stern, yet passed a dangerous and difficult passage and a bar, which require, it is said, your having all your eyes about you.6 A. M. Made land; the fog beginning to — disperse; put the Presbyterian Minister on shore; he is engaged by a Mr. Nichols as a tutor to his children! Boat returned with milk for breakfast. 7½ A. M. Dropped anchor; took Boat and landed on High-hill Island, four miles in length; two farms; got a few sour cherries; one hundred and fifty-four miles from New York. Crossed to the opposite or west shore, and landed at a farm house called Bethlehem, six miles from Albany; numerous and handsome family. 9 A. M. Having hired a waggoner, seven of our passengers took their departure. The day being remarkably sultry, I determined to stay by the Sloop. Returned on board with potatoes and sallad. Noon. Got under weigh; light south air. 2 P. M. Passed safely the Overslough. 3 P. M. Albany, one hundred and sixty miles from New York. Took up my quarters at Lewis’s Tavern, where I found Mr. Williams, Mr. Putnam, young Octavius and Lieutenant Kipp at dinner. Paid the Captain two dollars for passage-money, and four dollars and fifty cents, for board and liquors; the same sum of six dollars and fifty cents was charged for my servant, though neither his bed nor board were so good as mine. Our passage of four days may be considered a long one, at this season of the year, yet it was a pleasant one and no way tedious. The Hudson is one of the finest Rivers in America, and superior to them all in romantic and sublime scenery, more especially in its progress through the Highlands, a distance of sixteen miles. What further added to the pleasantness of this trip, were our frequent expeditions on shore. We landed seven times, and each time employed two or three hours in exploring the country. We saw, too, the whole of the River; as we progressed but very few miles during the time we occupied our births. We usually retired at eleven, and rose at four or five o’clock. The shortest passage ever made on this River was by this same Sloop and Captain; he made it in sixteen hours and six minutes, from which should be deducted one hour for time occupied in landing passengers by the way. The passage often takes a fortnight to perform it, and sometimes twenty-five or thirty days. The passage is always shortest, the winds being equally favorable, up the river, as you carry the flood with you; in the other case you out-run the ebb. Captain Donnelly has taken 1,675 Dollars passage money in one year.
THURSDAY, JUNE 26th.Dined with the Reverend Thomas Ellison, fifteen years Minister of the Episcopal Church in this city; was born at Newcastle, Great Britain. Mrs. Ellison and Mr. Ramsay, from North-Britain, were of the party.Evening. Visit Snuff Manufactory, StadtHouse and a fine spring of water about a quarter of a mile out of town. Heavy thunder gust in the morning; very sultry till noon; pleasant evening. FRIDAY, JUNE 27th.Mr. Williams, Mr. Putnam and Octavius set out for Boston. Lieutenant Kipp left us yesterday for Utica.Yesterday enclosed Mr. Isaacs’ letter to the Mayor of Albany. In the afternoon of the same day Mr. P. S. Van Rensselaer left his card. This morning left card at Mr. Van Rensselaer’s, who was gone to Schenactady. Dined at Lewis’s Table-d’hôte; present, General Campbell, Mr. Morgan, &c. Inspection of the militia; no order; not sized; ill drilled. Muskets and rifles; duck guns, pop guns, and bludgeons. Tea at Mr. Elhison’s. Showers in the morning; sultry; heavy thunder gust. SATURDAY, JUNE 28th.Walked south of the town, passed the Slaughter-house, the largest that I had ever seen; ten or twelve butchers at work, had already flayed thirty carcasses of sheep, lambs and calves, many others were in the condemned hole; excellent situation out of town open to every wind, over a creek near the Hudson; blood and entrails thrown into the creek, where they afforded a fine feast to a drove of hogs. Proceeded to General Schuyler’s (father-in-law to Mr. P. S. Van Rensselaer, the Lieutenant Governor, here better known by the title of the Patron;) pleasant situation near the town; climbed the heights in the rear of his house; fine view of the Hudson and surrounding country; to the N. N. E. the prospect was shut in by the mountain opposite Saratoga, to the East of the River. Followed a small stream to a deserted Mill, and from thence to a small but highly picturesque cascade. This is one of the most broken countries that I ever was in; deep though narrow gullies, cut it up in every direction; few of them can be passed even on foot, without much difficulty; on horseback, the passage is impracticable without artificial aid. These gullies are evidently formed by the heavy rains of this country, whose torrents soon work a channel in a soil, apparently of sand and soft loam; this part of the country may be termed the Barrens, principally producing the Scrub Pitch-Pine (Scotch Fir;) these pines were much wounded by a small grub, or caterpillar; some I found actively employed in eating their way into the young wood, and others in their nymph state. The grass was not cut, except in one field, and that was in cock; the Maize was not so forward as I had seen it a fortnight ago on York Island; the potatoes were about four inches out of the ground. Carrots we had this day to dinner for the first time. Young potatoes and cherries have not yet appeared in Albany.SUNDAY, JUNE 29th.Saint Peter’s; Reverend T. Ellison. Dined at home with General Campbell, Mr. Morgan, Mr. Carpentier, Mr. Cockrane, Mr. Hayward Mr. Ledgard, Mr. Bowers and from Charlstown. Walked to the cascade at Rensselaer’s Mills, two miles opposite side of the river, superior to the cascade visited yesterday; it is of a very different character to Lowdore-Falls near Keswick-Lake, but I think would be generally more admired. A saw mill erected on the verge of the fall greatly improves its effect. In Winter and Spring this Cascade is visible from Albany; and from thence, Albany is seen in its best point of view, being little more than a mile from it in a straight line.Cold North West Wind; a fire this day would not have been unpleasant. MONDAY, JUNE 30th.Crossed the river to Bath, a town lately laid out by the Patron; it at present consists of about thirty houses, but it is very doubtful if its further progress will be so rapid. The medicinal spring, and the baths, at one time so much wanted, are now shut up and neglected; yet, as a watering-place, it was to have rivalled Ballstown, and as a trading-place, Lansingburg and Troy. A country girl, returning from market, (who crossed the ferry at the same time,) spoke Dutch and English with equal fluency, and I may add with equal pertness. Climbed the heights east of Bath; fine view up the river, and of Troy. Returned by the Lower or Greenbush-Ferry. Never saw the wild grape and wild strawberry vines in greater profusion; in the coppice near the river, scarcely a tree that did not support one of the former; or a field that was not over-run by the latter. This ramble was a very wild and a very pleasant one; the air bracing and refreshing, and highly perfumed with the fragrance of wild roses and red clover. White clover is a native of this country; the red is, I believe, an exotic, though it is now to be found in a wild state all over this part of the country, even in the woods. The Birds I noticed were Boblincolns, Brownthrashers, and Robins.Afternoon. Long walk to the west of the town; fell in with the stream visited on Saturday; being scanty of water, followed its romantic course by taking advantage of the most elevated parts of its rocky channel; the cliffs on each hand nearly approached the perpendicular, and were generally from about seventy to one hundred and twenty feet, or perhaps more, in height. My progress was at length stopped by the cascade already described. The water being very clear and cool, I took advantage of where the rock was formed by the waters into a natural basin, to bathe. The neighborhood very busy hay making. TUESDAY, JULY 1st.Market; beef six and a quarter cents to nine cents per lb. average price about five to six cents, in the fall of the year four cents. No fish, save sturgeon, vulgarly called Albany beef, and that soon bought up; it is sold by the junk and skinned on the spot, which skin is a fine feast for the hogs which regularly attend the Fish market. The Americans brag much of their happy riddance from British tyranny and taxation. A word on this subject. The highest tax paid by any individual in this city, whilst under the British Government, was eight dollars per annum; this same Gentleman now pays, to the peace establishment of his country, one hundred and sixty dollars per annum, just twenty times as much! In 1787, the first year of the adoption of the present federal Constitution, a house which then let in Albany for fifteen pounds per annum, now rents for seventy pounds New York Currency, which is as thirty-seven dollars and fifty cents, to one hundred and seventy-five dollars. Beef then sold for three cents, now six to nine cents; butter nine cents, now twenty cents the year round; eggs twenty for twelve cents and a half, now twelve for twelve cents and a half; sturgeon for one-third less; wheat seventy-five cents, now one hundred and fifty cents per bushel; wine one dollar per gallon, now two and three dollars. Accompanied Mr. Howard and to Wendell’s Falls (Mills) the same which I yesterday visited; this morning we also explored the part below the Cascade so as to arrive at the foot of the fall; the pool, or basin, formed in this place, appears well adapted for bathing.Evening. Caldwell’s manufactory; followed the stream on which the same is erected; climbed heights west of the Patron’s Villa. Had I the kind devil-upon-two-sticks to befriend me, (for I know not how otherwise a stranger can get acquainted with the routine of their domestic economy, so sacred from profanation do they keep their household Lares!) I would, here bid adieu to this place, offer some observations on the manners of the Albanians, especially of the old Dutch inhabitants. However let us hear what says the Duke de Liancourt. "L’Hospitahitê pour les étrangers ne l)arait pas “être la qualité dominante des citoyens d’Albany; le pen que nous en avons vu est triste, lourd, vit chez lui avec une femnie quelquefois belle, souvent gauche, a laquelle il ne dit pas trente paroles par jour, quoiqu’il l’appelle, my dear!”If these “Lourds,” when living, have not the heart to entertain their friends, they are at least generous to profusion, when dead; when their eye cannot see, when their tongue cannot chide, and when their heart cannot grieve for the waste and extravagance of the “merry mourners,” who, to supply the loss of their friend, liberate and adopt his wine; who, as they consign the one to darkness, draw forth the other to light; and who, as good and honest executors wishing to do justice to the parties, take care that when the vault receives the one, it resigns the other; thus, no man gets drunk with his own wine; thus, the saddest are the most joyful; thus, though the host is not drunk, he is dead; though the guests are not dead, they are drunk; and thus no scandal to say the host and guests are dead-drunk. If I have any thing more to say of Albany, ‘tis that it is beyond the latitude of cherries, and that the Citizens of the Country drive waggons only; despising carts, their two horses harnessed chariot fashion. Morse, in 1797, speaks of the extreme deficiency of good Water in Albany, and that the Inhabitants were about to introduce water from a fine spring five miles west of the City. This fine spring ‘water is yet without the gates of the City, where, on the 1st of July, 1800, I saw it playing like a fountain before the door of the Manor House of the Patron, his Excellency the Lieutenant Governor. As for being obliged to use the dirty Water of the River, I will beg leave to observe to Mr. Morse, that a very great proportion of the City do not use the river water, which said river water is far from being dirty; rather remarkable for its purity, being a pleasant wholesome beverage. Great part of the City is supplied with water from a well in the main street; but the best water is from a pump to the Westward of the Episcopal Church; it is a water that my palate cannot find any fault with, nor my eyes perceive in it those animalcules Kalm speaks of; neither could I discover them in the well water. |